Tuesday, March 1, 2016

Let the sub-roadbed begin

Two weeks ago I went to PrairieRail. It's a great event. I was fortunate to operate on great layouts for every session. No Espee, but that's okay. I did operate on 2 Katy railroads. I have a soft spot for Katy and will have run thrus on the Los Angeles Division. I was also fortunate to revisit my favorite BBQ restaurant: Joe's Kansas City BBQ (formerly Okalahoma Joe's). By far the best BBQ I've had. So good that we had dinner there twice. Same as the last time...

One thing I walked away with was a technique for sub-roadbed. I had forgotten that a few of the Kansas City guys used drywall. Yep, drywall. While there I had some good conversations about using drywall, the positives, and the negatives.

I decided to jump in with both feet. For those who know me, I really like trying newer techniques. That is of course if I believe that it is reasonable and I can use it effectively. With the drywall, I'm giving it a try. I had originally planned to use 1/2" plywood for the sub-roadbed/decking for staging. My biggest concern was/is the fact that I can't find plywood that's worth a darn. It's all warped. And it's not cheap. Especially if I go to the lumber yard. Drywall is not warped. It's square and true. It also is about 1/3 the price of a sheet of plywood. So, I'm giving it a try.

I'm using 'Ultralight' panels which are about 30% less weight. They are all cut in the garage, away from the train room. I'm planning to use Liquid Nails to affix the drywall to the steel. I'll use some drywall screws to hold it in place.

Once it's all installed, it will be painted and sealed. Once that is done, let the track laying begin!


And a bit more...



10 comments:

  1. I didn't think you'd havebig humidity swings in AZ, so why worry about dealing?

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    1. Seth, I'm not worried about humidity swings. I'm sealing it with paint to provide a consistent finish and seal the cut edges of the drywall.

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  2. Rick, what material will you use on top of the drywall? How will drywall hold up over time?

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    1. I'll be laying the track directly on the drywall. I'm using DAP Alex Plus laytex caulk to affix the track to the drywall. My expectation is that it will hold up well. One of the layouts in KC has had it up for over 5 years with no issues.

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  3. Yea! I am glad that you are blazing a trail for this. I really felt that Mark Steenwyk's Beer Line was an exceptional example of how well drywall worked. No sags, and excellent sound absorption. I'm sold, but far away from benchwork. I look forward to following your progress on this and seeing how you tackle the challenges.

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  4. Yea for Drywall! I look forward to following your efforts. Mark Steenwyk's Beer Line layout was a drywall success in my book. There were no "sags" or "bumps" with the drywall and sound absorption was the best that I have ever not heard. I am sold on the potential and am going ahead with plans for it myself. Hearing how you tackle problems and challenges will be a good education for me as I am at least a year away from benchwork on the Humboldt & Toiyabe. Wish I was closer so that I could help you with the work. I am looking to play with drywall in a helix operation, but again, that won't happen for a year or so. Have to get the house up to speed. - Steve Bechtold

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    1. Yep. I was pretty impressed with the performance on Mark's layout. I'll keep posting the progress. And, I'll include pros and cons. I've yet to decide my approach on the main and upper levels. As staging comes along, I'll make my decisions on the rest of the railroad.

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  5. Rick,

    As I recall, Joe Fugate was experimenting with drywall for subroadbed, but I didn't see evidence of it when I operated there early last summer.

    Meanwhile, do check the edge thickness of your drywall panels. I know many have a taper to slightly thinner than the rest of the panel to assist with tape and mud at joints.

    --Bill Decker

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  6. Rick, now I see what the room look like and steel. pretty impressive. anxious to see it in person!!

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