March 2024 Update

Does the wiring ever end? I'm not so sure. 

Before I go into the update, I'd like to make a request to those who take the time to leave comments. I truly appreciate all comments, the good, the bad, and the ugly. ...well maybe not the ugly. However, if you're commenting at the bottom of the blog post, I'd like to ask you to add your name to your comment. The Blogger tool doesn't always capture a commenter's name. I've had a few great comments that I would like to respond to, but Blogger identifies the commenter as 'Anonymous', so I have no idea who would be responding to. If you could add your name at the bottom of the comment (signature line), I'd really appreciate it. If you'd rather not, I completely understand. With that out of the way, on to the blog:

A lot of the work this month continued under the layout. 

I'm using Cat6 23g solid copper wire for everything that is not track power related. This includes Tortoises, electromagnets, all push buttons, etc. All Tortoises are controlled via a push button. For the Tortoises in the Taylor Yard area, where there is a reach issue, I am using a NCE Button Board and Switch 8 Mk2 to provide turnout control via a push button. 

I am using the same method for Violet Alley. I am also using timer boards for control of the electromagnets. These are operated via a push button too. 

In the image to the right are three timer boards in the upper left corner, two button boards in the middle, and two Switch 8s on the bottom. Ironically, I need 9 individual push buttons. Each Button Board / Switch 8 pair can accommodate 8. Ugh!

As mentioned above, I'm using Cat6 which has four twisted pairs of wire. It is great for push buttons, Tortoises, and much more. Twisted pairs simplify wiring nicely.

Please note, all of the wiring pictured above has not been permanently mounted. That will be done once all the wiring and testing is complete. 

In a previous post, I made mention of using optical sensors in staging to indicate clearance by breaking a light beam. Similar to a garage door sensor. A light would come on to let the crew know the inbound train has passed the fouling point. That seemed like a great plan, but turned out not to be the case. The problem was that in order to make the method work multiple pairs of sensors would be required. This is due to how the yard ladders were constructed. Meaning, that the fouling points do not line up in a linear fashion. We were moving forward with the design, but I felt there had to be an easier method. I'd really like to keep things as simple as possible.

My solution is to place a yellow LED between the ties indicating when the fouling point has been cleared. This is only important for inbound trains. When the track is powered, a green LED will light up indicating the selected track has power and a yellow LED will light as well. Upon arriving on the staging track, once the yellow LED is visible under the caboose, the fouling point has been cleared and the operator can stop and park the train. 

Of course this meant I would be installing another 36 LEDs in addition to the green ones previously installed. For the green LEDs, I had used caulk to mount them in place. I wasn't happy with the result as the LEDs were too easily moved. I opted to try white Elmer's Glue to hold the LEDs in place. That has worked very well. 

Pictured are yellow and green LEDs being installed in the East Staging yard. 

I'm using 0402 Green and 0603 Yellow SMD LEDs. All are prewired with resistors. As the 0402s are so small, I thought using 0603s would make the job easier when adding the yellows LEDs. And it did. I twist the wires to keep them under control.

The green LEDs are noticeably brighter than the yellow. I'll see how they work out, If I need to dim the green, I'll add another resistor to each. My preference is to avoid that extra work!

Wiring the LEDs onto the track bus was a task. Soldering 30g wire to 14g is not as simple as one would think. Especially when on your back underneath the railroad, soldering above your head, and trying to avoid solder hitting you in the face. I'm happy to report no burns so far!

In order to complete construction of the main level, I needed to build out the base structure of the upper level and ensure it is solid and stable. In order to do so, I had to finish mounting the upper level stanchions on the walls. This is critically important from a leveling perspective. I needed to ensure the upper level is leveled between the walls and the peninsula. So, I mounted the rest of the wall stanchions (except for 3). As a bonus, another trip to Home Deport for more lag screws was required. Below are a series of pictures of the construction. 

Right is the bottom end of the Oxnard Yard as it heads to the wall in the far corner. The Ventura County Railway will split off and run along the wall and around the helix. From the far corner to the foreground is moving railroad east, compass south from Oxnard. On the main level, below the yellow level resting on the stanchions, is the beginning of the spline headed to Harbor Staging. 

Below is the track plan for the upper level in this area. I made some design changes that have expanded the Ventura County Railway. I was able to include the shops and local industries beyond what I had originally designed. The right side of the plan where is it cut off is the bottom of the Oxnard yard. 

Pictured right is the inside corner which will house the Ventura County Railway shops and local industries. It is an interesting challenge adding the stanchions for an inside corner. Which wall is best to mount them? Will it have enough support? I typically add a ledger board to the wall that doesn't have the stanchions for additional support in the corner. My plan is to weld a cross member between the two stanchions of the outside corner. This will allow me to add support risers for the span.

I'm not sure if I've pointed it out before, but the paper taped to the wall is to deflect debris from drilling holes in the wall and into the coke flat. It works well 'much' of the time. 

More stanchions were added between the windows. The wall studs are not always spaced at 16" on center due to wall lengths and windows. Thus a few extra stanchions were added. When all is done, I'll probably have 6 to 8 unused stanchions left over. I guess-timated on how many stanchions would be required. I would rather have a few unused extras than not enough.

With the last of the stanchions mounted, I had a base for leveling across to the Harbor/Valley Staging peninsula.

My plan for crossing the windows is different than what I did in Ventura. I'll be welding two cross members to the stanchions on each side of the window. They will be parallel with the window. One will be set back 4" from the front and the other set back 4" from the window. I will then build risers in place before adding the drywall sub-roadbed. 

Stanchion installation then moved to the Coast Staging wall and the Ojai Branch. There are three windows along this wall. The furthest (to the left of the red clamps) is the egress window in case of an emergency. For that, I am constructing a removable section of benchwork to provide easy access to the window. I have more windows in the room than I ever wanted. However, city code required that they be added in order to get my plans approved. I complied. Pictured is the section of stanchions above Violet Alley.  

Pictured right, is the most challenging section to add as access is precarious. When I built the main level, I intentionally backed all of the drywall in this area with plywood. I knew that I would likely need to be on top of the benchwork. I've accessed it a number of times. Once the track was laid, I began using sheets of styrofoam to cover and protect the track while I was on top of the benchwork. 

Next was to add stanchions filling in the gap between the windows. Yes, it was a bit of a game of Twister to make it happen. I was able to get the stanchions added and no track was damaged in the process. A second game of Twister will occur when I add the risers. 

The diagram below represents Coast Staging and the Ojai Branch. Coast staging is the four tracks along the wall. The Ojai Branch flows from Ventura on the left to the terminus on the right. Another six tracks of Coast Staging will be located down the middle of the Taylor Yard peninsula. 

To begin construction of the 6 track staging, I had to first complete stanchion installation on the window wall. The six track yard will tie into the stanchions.

Pictured right are the stanchions going around the corner headed to the end of the Ojai Branch. 

Note the container of Dawn liquid soap. I use this to lubricate the lag screws prior to installing them. The lube helps the screws easily sink into the studs. After pre-drilling holes of course.

The stanchions now are complete except for a few in the corner above where the Ojai Branch ends. I still have to complete the main level benchwork and align the narrow section of benchwork which will go over the stairwell connecting to the other side of the railroad. I will wait on installation of the few remaining stanchions until the main level is track work is complete. Suffice it to say, I'm trying to avoid hitting the stanchions with my head. I'm considering adding tennis balls onto the ends during main level construction.

Once the majority of the stanchions were mounted to the wall, I had the reference point to begin building the upper level base structure on the Harbor/Valley Staging peninsula.

During my initial construction, the vertical support legs for the upper level were integrated into the design. Now it was time to mount upper level cross members to those legs. As usual, the upper level frames were constructed down on my back driveway,  carried onto the roof and over to the window. Each frame was passed through the open window and into the layout room. There is no way I can get a 20' section of benchwork up the stairway as it's not a straight shot. In the last picture above, the window on the left side is where the frames are passed through. There are only two remaining pieces of benchwork frames (for the 6 track Coast Staging) to be constructed and brought up this way. Once complete, the window will be blocked by benchwork.

To keep the frames from impacting main level visibility, I built them to be only 27" wide. A 48" crossmember is connected to the frame. A riser will be installed onto the crossmember to support the sub-roadbed. Given the viewing angle, the extra 1" of steel depth will not be visible. The frame and cross member design is similar to how the staging and main levels are built on the peninsulas.

After the frames were brought upstairs, they were placed onto the main level benchwork. As the frame is narrower than the main level frame (which is 40"), I temporarily placed main level cross members to support the frame. 

Pictured above and right are the frames for each side of the peninsula having been placed on top of the cross members. One side is 15' long and the other is 20'. The difference in length is that in the picture above right is the helix connecting the main to the upper level. The helix is to the left (not pictured). The helix is 7' in diameter and will have a gap of 3" all the way around it. The upper level frame needs to be clear of the helix. 

I opted to construct the upper level a bit different than the other levels. Typically, I have installed the frame and then added the cross members. However, for the upper level, I want to keep the thickness to a minimum. To that end, I decided to attach the cross members to the legs first, and then raise the frame up to the cross members, rather than place the frame on top of supports. 

The first step was to attach the cross members to the legs. I clamped a temporary vertical support as a block while using another clamp to hold the cross member. 

After leveling the cross member horizontally, I leveled it to wall stanchions on the right. This was critical to ensure alignment between the wall and the peninsula.

I then proceeded to add cross members to the remaining legs. This really looked more like telephone poles than anything else.

Once all of the cross members were leveled and welded into place, it was time to lift the frame up to the cross members. This was a bit of a challenge as there were only two of us to do this. We each lifted a side and clamped the frame to the cross member. It actually went smoother than I had expected. All cross members were then welded to the frame.

With the welding complete, the upper level still had some flex. This is because of the leverage point. The legs are attached to the peninsula at the staging level. My hope was that once I added a cross member to the main level and welded it to the leg and main level frame, that movement would be eliminated. Fortunately, that stiffened everything up significantly. I'm confident that when the main level cross members are attached at every leg, if will further stiffen the upper level. I will also be adding an attachment from the wall stanchions to the peninsula which will provide further stiffening. 

Checking the levels, had nothing to do with a sound check. 

I wasn't able to get the other half of the peninsula completed in March as I needed to fabricate more cross members. That will be completed in April. 

The down side of my March results is that I still didn't lay any track. All of the work items completed in March are critical for construction of a well functioning railroad. 

That wraps up the March update. Thanks for reading.